London Up-date.

Approaching Liberty's
Approaching Liberty’s

A day in London is always exciting and I go up regularly to meet friends, to the theatre – to eat, to visit an exhibition or museum or just to wander the streets and soak up the atmosphere.  The aura of history is a tangible factor in this stupendous city and over the years it has just got better and better. By that, I guess I mean that it has become more accessible, more tourist friendly and attuned to the needs and wants of visitors.  In turn, Londoners themselves benefit from enhanced facilities and the extra cash that is spread around.

The Thames
The Thames

When I first came here to live 48 years ago (it seems so long ago and yet just like yesterday,) it was a hugely different scene. Traffic clogged all the main shopping streets. I remember only one pub in the West End, situated behind Selfridges that had any tables and chairs outside. The opportunity for any day-time entertainment other than shopping and visiting historic monuments was non-existent and the general consensus was that the weather was too fickle for any European nonsense like eating and drinking out-of-doors.  Apart from the Fortes in Piccadilly for a special treat, your average punter relied on local pubs, stodgy tea-rooms – often in department stores, the ubiquitous Wimpy Bars and an appalling chain of eateries called The Golden Egg. The casual, cheap eating and entertainment scene was indeed sadly lacking. It was grim for the non-shopper!  I must hastily say that it was a bit different out in the country!

Lunch at LPQ
Lunch at LPQ

Now, the area is crammed with cafes and pubs, offering outside seating winter and summer. The cafes around the Carnaby Street area and Liberty’s offer a great meeting place for everyone, with some not bad food and plenty to drink. I often visit to get a decent espresso or a flat white from the NZ café there. It is called Flat White and it comes well recommended. Also try Sacred, another NZ espresso bar in several locations, including Westfield Shopping Mall.

05-DSCF2360Arguably the most changed area of London from my point of view anyway, (forgetting the Olympic development) is South of the river where a grim huddle of semi-industrial concrete and brick, winding lanes and old slums, has been turned into

The Globe Theatre
The Globe Theatre

a truly intriguing opportunity to wander along the bank of the Thames and to soak up the vibrant atmosphere of this ‘new’ part of London.

Known simply as South Bank, here there are masses of cafes, small shops and watering-holes seeded with not-to-be missed attractions like the Tate Modern (art gallery), the Globe Theatre (an on-site re-construction of Shakespeare’s Globe) and the National Theatre.

The Tate Modern
The Tate Modern

The Acquarium and the London Eye are among other attractions that may be accessed from this area and there are skilled buskers, music and street theatre to add to a sense of bubbling excitement. Treasures like this are your reward for walking rather than taking the ‘tube’.  It is fun, when the tide is out, to watch sand sculptors working their magic down on river level.

The Mudlark
The Mudlark

It is fascinating  to visit the old Mudlark pub, situated in the shadow of the Southwark Cathedral (probably best not to sit outside in the pub garden when the cathedral clock chimes!) Here, you may be tempted by a ‘typical’ English pie or, if your tastes are less robust, you may try Le Pain Quotidien for a modern French-style salad with excellent bread and a lush pastry. So much variety!

The Millennium Bridge
The Millennium Bridge

You can easily, too, walk over the Millennium Bridge and up the tiny hill to St. Paul’s Cathedral with its famous dome, designed by Sir Christopher Wren.  A memorable ending to the day is to attend the 17.00 Evensong choral service in the cathedral (where the sound of the choir will surely send prickles down your spine,) before wandering back over the bridge for a welcome drink and something to eat.

The Dome of St Paul's
The Dome of St Paul’s

It is all there for the asking – a great day out and one that offers

different pleasures each

time it is repeated.

Do you have a favourite place in London that is no longer being used for its original purpose, but which has been converted to provide entertainment?  We would all love to hear about it. We are always looking for new places to visit!

The Planets with the London Philharmonia

“Our” Train

It is now three and a half months since we arrived in England and at last I am losing the feeling that I am here only on holiday. Stop though! We have been up to London for the day twice, in the last week. We have spent a day in Tenterden, a beautiful Kentish town with a great shopping centre (not a mall, but good, old-fashioned strip shopping). We have been to Maidstone, Kent’s county town and we have visited Sissinghurst, one of the most beautiful gardens in our part of Kent. It is a holiday after all! Even the domestic chores such as visiting the Estate Agent and looking for carpets and beds, take on a different aspect and become quite pleasurable without the pressure that usually accompanies such chores.

The Strings

Our two latest trips to London were to the Science Museum, to experience the installation entitled “Universe of Sound”, developed by the London Philharmonia Orchestra along with  their conductor, Esa-PekkaSalonen. The orchestra was performing on film – a ‘virtual orchestra’ with 105 musicians, in fact. The Planets, composed by Gustav Holst formed the basis for what amounted to a virtual tour around the orchestra while it was in full flight. It was a fantastic experience, so good, in fact, that we went the second time just to catch up with the bits we had missed and to re-visit our favourite passages.

This was no ordinary film of an orchestra performing, however. The large exhibition space was divided into several generously-sized cubicles , each devoted to groups of related instruments, e.g. 1st and 2nd violins and viola, flutes and oboes, harps, clarinets and bassoons, celeste and organ, brass, timpani and percussion. In each cubical, were a number of screens, which were showing film of each section, with the musicians playing their respective instruments.

Timpani

See the pics if this sounds a little complicated! The appropriate music was provided on stands, allowing us to sit and follow the music in real time and the sound was jigged to allow us to hear only what the musicians would hear while playing. The idea was to wander through the installation and to spend time with each section of the orchestra, gaining some insight into the feeling of playing in such a charged atmosphere. The final station was a huge cone of screens, above head height, where the full weight of the complete orchestra thundered around one’s head. Here there was film of the conductor, and several other musicians, strutting their stuff, so to speak. It was fabulous.

The Conductor – Esa-PekkaSalonen

To add to the interest, there were two smaller screens with sub-titles and optional head-phones. One showed film of the conductor as he led the musicians, recording his thoughts about the music and its composer. The other was of the orchestra. Here were comments by and thoughts of the musicians themselves, while they were playing. These offered a personal and rarely experienced insight into the minds of the players, often humorous and surprisingly down-to-earth.

Woodwind

Finally, there were several screens set up to allow would-be conductors the experience of conducting the orchestra themselves. A grand experience for many. There were on-going tutorials on percussion and timpani, too, with brilliant young students and on film once again, the musicians, helping children of all ages, to play along and to make the right noises at the right time.

A member of the orchestra.

If you timed it right, as we did on our second visit, you were treated to the presence of one or more of the members of the orchestra coming in with his or her instrument, sitting in the appropriate area and playing live. We were fortunate and our visit coincided with that of one of the viola players who chatted about his work and even allowed me to “turn the page” for him. OMG, I haven’t been so focussed for years!

So – to clarify for those who are totally confused – all the while, Gustav Holst’s The Planet Suite was just playing on a permanent loop, surrounding us with magnificent sound, allowing us to duck and dive and catch up with it at any of the different stations.

The organ

The installation also featured a new companion piece to The Planets, by composer Joby Talbot, called World, Stars, Systems, Infinity.

I must say, the two days we attended this installation were real high-lights for us and illustrated just how lucky we are to live in such close proximity to events such as this. Not only that, it was free! All we were asked for was a donation to enter the museum, and there was not pressure there, either. If we had chosen not to give, for whatever reason, that would have been fine too.

Thank you London!